Fixings Squeaking Stairs in Older Homes

Oh yes the common problem of squeaking stairs in an older house. This could become very frustrating and annoying as you walk up and down the stairs. There seems to be one or two stair treads that are always squeaking. That annoying sound as you walk as softly as you can on your way down to the kitchen in the middle of the night to grab a quick snack.

The number one cause of squeaking stairs is when the nails used to fasten the stair tread to the stair strainers has worked its way loose. Over time as the lumber shrinks in the stair treads and the stairs stringers. You will start to develop a separation or a gap between the stair tread and the stair strainer.

The stair stringer can shrink as much as 3/8 of an inch in just a few years. I was building a home and went to measure the stair stringer that was 11 1/2 inches wide originally. Then I measured it after two months outside in the summer sun it now measured 11 1/16". I was amazed that the lumber could shrink that much in such a short period of time.

As the stair stringer shrinks it starts to pull away from the plywood or hardwood stair tread. As it starts to separate from the stair tread the nail will stay in its original position until the stair tread starts to put pressure on the nail eventually lifting it up a little bit higher than its original position.

As you step on the stair tread the squeaking sound you hear is the nail rubbing against the stair tread. There are a few ways to fix a squeaking stair tread. If you have access to under the stairway you can apply some adhesive along with a 10 inch 2 x 4 under the stair tread and attach it to the stair stringer.

First apply adhesive to two sides of the 2 x 4. The adhesive will be used to glue the stair tread to the stair stringer. You can use screws to screw the new 2 x 4 onto the side of the stair stringer.

If you cannot access the underside of the stairs and you have carpeting you can actually locate the stair stringer and drive a 2 inch screw through the carpeting in to the stair stringer. This will pull the stair tread down and will not allow it to rub up against the nail making that awful sound of a squeaking stair case.

If you have a finished wood stair tread you will not be able to screw through it into the stair stringer without damaging the finish on tread itself. It will be easier to access the stair stringer from below somehow and apply the 2 x 4 with the adhesive to stop the stair squeak.

You can apply these methods to as many stair treads that are squeaking without taking apart the entire staircase and rebuilding it.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more building stairs books and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Stair Building

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Greg_Vandenberge

Fixings Squeaking Stairs in Older Homes

Oh yes the common problem of squeaking stairs in an older house. This could become very frustrating and annoying as you walk up and down the stairs. There seems to be one or two stair treads that are always squeaking. That annoying sound as you walk as softly as you can on your way down to the kitchen in the middle of the night to grab a quick snack.

The number one cause of squeaking stairs is when the nails used to fasten the stair tread to the stair strainers has worked its way loose. Over time as the lumber shrinks in the stair treads and the stairs stringers. You will start to develop a separation or a gap between the stair tread and the stair strainer.

The stair stringer can shrink as much as 3/8 of an inch in just a few years. I was building a home and went to measure the stair stringer that was 11 1/2 inches wide originally. Then I measured it after two months outside in the summer sun it now measured 11 1/16". I was amazed that the lumber could shrink that much in such a short period of time.

As the stair stringer shrinks it starts to pull away from the plywood or hardwood stair tread. As it starts to separate from the stair tread the nail will stay in its original position until the stair tread starts to put pressure on the nail eventually lifting it up a little bit higher than its original position.

As you step on the stair tread the squeaking sound you hear is the nail rubbing against the stair tread. There are a few ways to fix a squeaking stair tread. If you have access to under the stairway you can apply some adhesive along with a 10 inch 2 x 4 under the stair tread and attach it to the stair stringer.

First apply adhesive to two sides of the 2 x 4. The adhesive will be used to glue the stair tread to the stair stringer. You can use screws to screw the new 2 x 4 onto the side of the stair stringer.

If you cannot access the underside of the stairs and you have carpeting you can actually locate the stair stringer and drive a 2 inch screw through the carpeting in to the stair stringer. This will pull the stair tread down and will not allow it to rub up against the nail making that awful sound of a squeaking stair case.

If you have a finished wood stair tread you will not be able to screw through it into the stair stringer without damaging the finish on tread itself. It will be easier to access the stair stringer from below somehow and apply the 2 x 4 with the adhesive to stop the stair squeak.

You can apply these methods to as many stair treads that are squeaking without taking apart the entire staircase and rebuilding it.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more building stairs books and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Stair Building

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Greg_Vandenberge

Fixings Squeaking Stairs in Older Homes

Oh yes the common problem of squeaking stairs in an older house. This could become very frustrating and annoying as you walk up and down the stairs. There seems to be one or two stair treads that are always squeaking. That annoying sound as you walk as softly as you can on your way down to the kitchen in the middle of the night to grab a quick snack.

The number one cause of squeaking stairs is when the nails used to fasten the stair tread to the stair strainers has worked its way loose. Over time as the lumber shrinks in the stair treads and the stairs stringers. You will start to develop a separation or a gap between the stair tread and the stair strainer.

The stair stringer can shrink as much as 3/8 of an inch in just a few years. I was building a home and went to measure the stair stringer that was 11 1/2 inches wide originally. Then I measured it after two months outside in the summer sun it now measured 11 1/16". I was amazed that the lumber could shrink that much in such a short period of time.

As the stair stringer shrinks it starts to pull away from the plywood or hardwood stair tread. As it starts to separate from the stair tread the nail will stay in its original position until the stair tread starts to put pressure on the nail eventually lifting it up a little bit higher than its original position.

As you step on the stair tread the squeaking sound you hear is the nail rubbing against the stair tread. There are a few ways to fix a squeaking stair tread. If you have access to under the stairway you can apply some adhesive along with a 10 inch 2 x 4 under the stair tread and attach it to the stair stringer.

First apply adhesive to two sides of the 2 x 4. The adhesive will be used to glue the stair tread to the stair stringer. You can use screws to screw the new 2 x 4 onto the side of the stair stringer.

If you cannot access the underside of the stairs and you have carpeting you can actually locate the stair stringer and drive a 2 inch screw through the carpeting in to the stair stringer. This will pull the stair tread down and will not allow it to rub up against the nail making that awful sound of a squeaking stair case.

If you have a finished wood stair tread you will not be able to screw through it into the stair stringer without damaging the finish on tread itself. It will be easier to access the stair stringer from below somehow and apply the 2 x 4 with the adhesive to stop the stair squeak.

You can apply these methods to as many stair treads that are squeaking without taking apart the entire staircase and rebuilding it.

Fixings Squeaking Stairs in Older Homes

Oh yes the common problem of squeaking stairs in an older house. This could become very frustrating and annoying as you walk up and down the stairs. There seems to be one or two stair treads that are always squeaking. That annoying sound as you walk as softly as you can on your way down to the kitchen in the middle of the night to grab a quick snack.

The number one cause of squeaking stairs is when the nails used to fasten the stair tread to the stair strainers has worked its way loose. Over time as the lumber shrinks in the stair treads and the stairs stringers. You will start to develop a separation or a gap between the stair tread and the stair strainer.

The stair stringer can shrink as much as 3/8 of an inch in just a few years. I was building a home and went to measure the stair stringer that was 11 1/2 inches wide originally. Then I measured it after two months outside in the summer sun it now measured 11 1/16". I was amazed that the lumber could shrink that much in such a short period of time.

As the stair stringer shrinks it starts to pull away from the plywood or hardwood stair tread. As it starts to separate from the stair tread the nail will stay in its original position until the stair tread starts to put pressure on the nail eventually lifting it up a little bit higher than its original position.

As you step on the stair tread the squeaking sound you hear is the nail rubbing against the stair tread. There are a few ways to fix a squeaking stair tread. If you have access to under the stairway you can apply some adhesive along with a 10 inch 2 x 4 under the stair tread and attach it to the stair stringer.

First apply adhesive to two sides of the 2 x 4. The adhesive will be used to glue the stair tread to the stair stringer. You can use screws to screw the new 2 x 4 onto the side of the stair stringer.

If you cannot access the underside of the stairs and you have carpeting you can actually locate the stair stringer and drive a 2 inch screw through the carpeting in to the stair stringer. This will pull the stair tread down and will not allow it to rub up against the nail making that awful sound of a squeaking stair case.

If you have a finished wood stair tread you will not be able to screw through it into the stair stringer without damaging the finish on tread itself. It will be easier to access the stair stringer from below somehow and apply the 2 x 4 with the adhesive to stop the stair squeak.

You can apply these methods to as many stair treads that are squeaking without taking apart the entire staircase and rebuilding it.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Greg_Vandenberge

How to Build Basement Stairs on a Budget

Basement stairs come in all shapes and sizes from the very simple utility/access stairs to the more elaborate decorative stairs in which the basement is expanded to be a major part of the living area. One of the major issues facing the stair builder is the unpredictable overall stair height that often occurs with basement stairs. Whether new or existing construction the basement slab height nearly always seems to vary up or down making pre-built stairs problematic. For this reason basement stairs are usually built to customized heights.

The normal procedure in the industry is to call out a stair specialist to custom build the stair using 2 x12 cut stringers as framing for constructing the stair. This can be a difficult and costly process requiring a high degree of skill. However, there is an easier solution available that will save you time as well as money. The system consists of self-adjusting, stair building brackets, used to form an "engineered stair". Adjustable stair building brackets provide a custom, tailored approach to stair building that is much faster, easier and stronger than conventional construction. They're an easy, low cost and simple solution for any custom basement stair building.

This bracket system can quickly form a basic utility stair or an elaborate, fully finished hardwood stair. The adjustable stair building brackets basically do the work for you, making the stair building process simple and streamlined. The brackets are approved as adjustable joist hangers which automatically adjust to form any rise or run required while at the same time, allowing the risers to be structurally attached between the stringers, carrying the load across the stair like stepping floor joists.

Only two outside stringers are required because they are full depth, without notching (unlike conventional cut stringers) and they're engineered to carry much greater loads than conventional cut stringers. Additionally, only three to four end cuts are required per stringer which eliminate approximately seventy saw cuts when compared to conventional cut stringers for basement stairs.

The adjustable stair building brackets may be used with many different materials including pine, MDF treads, hardwoods etc. The adjustable stair building brackets allow for customized rise and tread configurations which can be adjusted to meet all building codes for both interior and exterior applications.

The first thing you need to do is to determine the material you are going to use, the exact number of steps and the stair width. A fully interactive stair calculator is available online which further simplifies the process.

For materials, you will need (2) 2 x6's per stringer member for both sides. The stringers should be straight without any twist. The 2x6's should be at least 12" longer than the total length of your stair.

Adjustable brackets will allow stairs to be built up to nine feet in width, using only the two outside stringers. Use 2x8's for risers with heights up to 7-1/4" and 2 x10's for risers over 7-1/4". Treads may be 2x12's, 5/4 pine, 5/4 hardwood, sturdy floor ripped to size or MDF etc. Pre-cut risers and treads exactly to length once you figure out how many steps you need and their width- this will save time.

You start by setting the brackets on two 2x6 stringer members using the reusable spacers and pivot screws. Once set, remove spacers and rotate the brackets to adjust stair rise and run. Fix the brackets in position and attach the risers and treads. 3D demos will explain the process clearly- see link below.

Tools and other materials needed will be: Power drill, saw (preferably power saw),# 8 1-1/4" Phillips head, star or square drive screws for the stair building brackets, #8 2-1/2" screws for every 9 " of tread and riser connections and spacers to customize the rise and tread configurations.

ICC-ES approved, this" Engineered Stair Building System" eliminates the need to cut stringers and has been tested to be faster and much stronger than conventionally constructed stairs. Savings of $500 per flight of stairs and more are not uncommon with adjustable stair building brackets. Using this system, both professionals and do-it-yourselfers will build cost efficient basement stairs, without sacrificing quality, accuracy, strength or appearance.

Tag : stair lifts,stair,stair building,acorn stair lifts

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Richard_Truckner

How to Build Basement Stairs on a Budget

Basement stairs come in all shapes and sizes from the very simple utility/access stairs to the more elaborate decorative stairs in which the basement is expanded to be a major part of the living area. One of the major issues facing the stair builder is the unpredictable overall stair height that often occurs with basement stairs. Whether new or existing construction the basement slab height nearly always seems to vary up or down making pre-built stairs problematic. For this reason basement stairs are usually built to customized heights.

The normal procedure in the industry is to call out a stair specialist to custom build the stair using 2 x12 cut stringers as framing for constructing the stair. This can be a difficult and costly process requiring a high degree of skill. However, there is an easier solution available that will save you time as well as money. The system consists of self-adjusting, stair building brackets, used to form an "engineered stair". Adjustable stair building brackets provide a custom, tailored approach to stair building that is much faster, easier and stronger than conventional construction. They're an easy, low cost and simple solution for any custom basement stair building.

This bracket system can quickly form a basic utility stair or an elaborate, fully finished hardwood stair. The adjustable stair building brackets basically do the work for you, making the stair building process simple and streamlined. The brackets are approved as adjustable joist hangers which automatically adjust to form any rise or run required while at the same time, allowing the risers to be structurally attached between the stringers, carrying the load across the stair like stepping floor joists.

Only two outside stringers are required because they are full depth, without notching (unlike conventional cut stringers) and they're engineered to carry much greater loads than conventional cut stringers. Additionally, only three to four end cuts are required per stringer which eliminate approximately seventy saw cuts when compared to conventional cut stringers for basement stairs.

The adjustable stair building brackets may be used with many different materials including pine, MDF treads, hardwoods etc. The adjustable stair building brackets allow for customized rise and tread configurations which can be adjusted to meet all building codes for both interior and exterior applications.

The first thing you need to do is to determine the material you are going to use, the exact number of steps and the stair width. A fully interactive stair calculator is available online which further simplifies the process.

For materials, you will need (2) 2 x6's per stringer member for both sides. The stringers should be straight without any twist. The 2x6's should be at least 12" longer than the total length of your stair.

Adjustable brackets will allow stairs to be built up to nine feet in width, using only the two outside stringers. Use 2x8's for risers with heights up to 7-1/4" and 2 x10's for risers over 7-1/4". Treads may be 2x12's, 5/4 pine, 5/4 hardwood, sturdy floor ripped to size or MDF etc. Pre-cut risers and treads exactly to length once you figure out how many steps you need and their width- this will save time.

You start by setting the brackets on two 2x6 stringer members using the reusable spacers and pivot screws. Once set, remove spacers and rotate the brackets to adjust stair rise and run. Fix the brackets in position and attach the risers and treads. 3D demos will explain the process clearly- see link below.

Tools and other materials needed will be: Power drill, saw (preferably power saw),# 8 1-1/4" Phillips head, star or square drive screws for the stair building brackets, #8 2-1/2" screws for every 9 " of tread and riser connections and spacers to customize the rise and tread configurations.

ICC-ES approved, this" Engineered Stair Building System" eliminates the need to cut stringers and has been tested to be faster and much stronger than conventionally constructed stairs. Savings of $500 per flight of stairs and more are not uncommon with adjustable stair building brackets. Using this system, both professionals and do-it-yourselfers will build cost efficient basement stairs, without sacrificing quality, accuracy, strength or appearance.

Tag : stair lifts,stair,stair build,budget

Why Installing a Stair Nosing on the Edge of Any Kind of Stair Step Edge Is a Must

The durability and the safe use of stairs have always been a concern for architects and constructors.

The stair nosing has been around since the early 20th century.

For instance if you visit the gorgeous Plaza de España in the historic city of Sevilla in Spain please pay attention to the step edges of the stairs that direct you to the upper floor from where you get a spectacular view of the palace's square. You will notice superb step edgings that most properly inspired today's stair nosing designers. This superb palace was constructed in the late 1920s.

There is no doubt that you will notice diverse step edgings in several old buildings with stone, ceramic, marble or parquet overlaid stairs.

The stair nosings that are installed on the step edge of ceramic tile, marble or wood covered stairs in contemporary buildings and particularly in public ones such as shopping malls, schools, governmental institutions are subject to heavy pedestrian traffic.

Installed on the edge of the ceramic or similar stair steps the aluminium stair nosing trim is designed to provide protection to the stone, marble or ceramic tile edge on the stairs by preventing chipping and fractures. The use of the stairs is safeguarded as stair steps may become hazardous particularly when wet or worn out.

A great deal of accidents occur going down on stairs when the proper attention is not paid. Many of these accidents may result in serious injuries.

Presently several models of aluminium stair nosings are suggested for the protection and secure use of the concrete, ceramic tile, marble, stone or wood covered stairs:

Stair nosings which are installed directly over the concrete stair step edge.

Tile-in stair nosings with or without replaceable pvc insert, designed to accommodate ceramic tiles in various thicknesses. These stair nosings may only be fitted during the tile, marble or stone installation process; as the bottom of the frontal edge of the nosing should get under the ceramic tile to ensure a firm grip.

The incorporated and durable ribbed PVC strips which come in a variety of colors (i.e. black, grey, brown or cream) achieve perfect compatibility with the ceramic tile colorations and furnish improved slip resistance.

Retro fit step edges, with or without replaceable vinyl insert that are fitted after tile, stone or marble installation.

There are no other major distinctions between the two stair nosings, both serve the same purposes. Worn out stair steps not only portray an unpleasant look, but on top of that the secure use of the stairs is endangered. As a consequence this form of anti skid stair nose is a perfect choice for upgrading and renovating existing stairs in poor condition and in need of repair. The worn out stair edges would be covered up and masked.

The grooves on the upper surface of the stair nosing will add an anti slip feature assuring the safe use the stairs. The utilization of non slip stair nosing is highly recommended to protect tiles on stairs from chipping and to prevent costly and unnecessary ceramic tile installation expenses afterwards.

An aluminum stair nosing fitted at the edge of the wooden stair would prove to be highly beneficial as well. The parquet and laminate flooring stair step edges will be protected from wear and the unsightly appearance of fractured and damaged stair step edges will be avoided. Subsequently damage to stair edges and its disagreeable appearance are averted as well as high-priced renovations.

Diverse stair tread nosing profiles that can withstand extensive influx secure the use of the wood stairs, and their anti-slip ribbed top surface and the grooves create slip resistance and enable the safe use of the stairs.

Slip and fall accident risks are reduced, injuries no longer become a concern and a decorative feature perfectly fitting the stairs is provided.

The retrofit stair tread nosing may be fitted with glue, adhesive tape or rather screwed to the tile, stone, parquet or similar flooring to allow a long lasting tight grip. When supplied predrilled and with countersink holes the installation with screws will turn out to be faster and smoother.

Tag : stair,stair nosing,installing,edge

Stop Damage to Carpeted Stairs

Carpets can take a beating, but certain areas wear out faster. If your stairs are carpeted, they are going to wear out much faster than the rest of floor.

A carpet stair tread is a piece of fabric designed to be placed on a wooden stair to protect the wood from excessive wear and to provide additional traction. They differ from runners although both perform basically the same purpose. The runner however is a continuous piece of carpet that wraps up and over each stair step. The stair tread sits on an individual step. Each tread is a separate piece. The normal tread has less width than the step so that the wood of the step shows on each end.

Polished wooden stairways were common in older homes. The first stair treads were developed to protect the stair way on a temporary basis. These pieces of carpet were placed on the steps during cleaning or times of heavy traffic. They could also be used to protect the stairs during periods of inclement weather. When conditions were back to normal, the treads could be removed and the polished surface below was displayed again.

There are still some types of carpet stair threads that are backed with heavy vinyl. They can be placed on the stair and the non-slip vinyl holds them in place. They will not slide when stepped on, but can be picked up easily when they are not wanted or needed.

Most carpet stair threads today are designed to be permanently attached in the same manner as regular carpet. There are special carpet tacks designed to be used to fasten the carpet thread to the step. The permanent carpet threads no longer serve as merely a protection function. They become part of the overall decorating theme of the staircase and the home itself. Temporary stair treads are not overly concerned with color or style. They are more concerned with toughness and durability. The permanent ones come in a variety equal to floor carpeting.

One problem of carpet stair treads is cleaning. It is hard to drag a vacuum cleaner up a flightof stairs and often the vacuum cleaner head will be too wide to maneuver on the step. There are several products designed for cleaning carpet treads. Most of these are either hand held vacuum cleaners or attachments to a larger upright or canister vacuum cleaner. If you have treads on your stairs, it is important to make sure you have a good cleaning tool. Cleaning and upkeep on the carpet stair tread is as important here as on any other type of carpet.

Find professional carpet cleaning services at CarpetCleaningYeti.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Enrique_Cleanotto

Why Installing a Stair Nosing on the Edge of Any Kind of Stair Step Edge Is a Must

The durability and the safe use of stairs have always been a concern for architects and constructors.

The stair nosing has been around since the early 20th century.

For instance if you visit the gorgeous Plaza de España in the historic city of Sevilla in Spain please pay attention to the step edges of the stairs that direct you to the upper floor from where you get a spectacular view of the palace's square. You will notice superb step edgings that most properly inspired today's stair nosing designers. This superb palace was constructed in the late 1920s.

There is no doubt that you will notice diverse step edgings in several old buildings with stone, ceramic, marble or parquet overlaid stairs.

The stair nosings that are installed on the step edge of ceramic tile, marble or wood covered stairs in contemporary buildings and particularly in public ones such as shopping malls, schools, governmental institutions are subject to heavy pedestrian traffic.

Installed on the edge of the ceramic or similar stair steps the aluminium stair nosing trim is designed to provide protection to the stone, marble or ceramic tile edge on the stairs by preventing chipping and fractures. The use of the stairs is safeguarded as stair steps may become hazardous particularly when wet or worn out.

A great deal of accidents occur going down on stairs when the proper attention is not paid. Many of these accidents may result in serious injuries.

Presently several models of aluminium stair nosings are suggested for the protection and secure use of the concrete, ceramic tile, marble, stone or wood covered stairs:

Stair nosings which are installed directly over the concrete stair step edge.

Tile-in stair nosings with or without replaceable pvc insert, designed to accommodate ceramic tiles in various thicknesses. These stair nosings may only be fitted during the tile, marble or stone installation process; as the bottom of the frontal edge of the nosing should get under the ceramic tile to ensure a firm grip.

The incorporated and durable ribbed PVC strips which come in a variety of colors (i.e. black, grey, brown or cream) achieve perfect compatibility with the ceramic tile colorations and furnish improved slip resistance.

Retro fit step edges, with or without replaceable vinyl, insert that are fitted after tile, stone or marble installation.

There are no other major distinctions between the two stair nosings, both serve the same purposes. Worn out stair steps not only portray an unpleasant look, but on top of that the secure use of the stairs is endangered. As a consequence this form of anti skid stair nose is a perfect choice for upgrading and renovating existing stairs in poor condition and in need of repair. The worn out stair edges would be covered up and masked.

The grooves on the upper surface of the stair nosing will add an anti slip feature assuring the safe use the stairs. The utilization of non slip stair nosing is highly recommended to protect tiles on stairs from chipping and to prevent costly and unnecessary ceramic tile installation expenses afterwards.

An aluminum stair nosing fitted at the edge of the wooden stair would prove to be highly beneficial as well. The parquet and laminate flooring stair step edges will be protected from wear and the unsightly appearance of fractured and damaged stair step edges will be avoided. Subsequently damage to stair edges and its disagreeable appearance are averted as well as high-priced renovations.

Diverse stair tread nosing profiles that can withstand extensive influx secure the use of the wood stairs, and their anti-slip ribbed top surface and the grooves create slip resistance and enable the safe use of the stairs.

Slip and fall accident risks are reduced, injuries no longer become a concern and a decorative feature perfectly fitting the stairs is provided.

The retrofit stair tread nosing may be fitted with glue, adhesive tape or rather screwed to the tile, stone, parquet or similar flooring to allow a long lasting tight grip. When supplied predrilled and with countersink holes the installation with screws will turn out to be faster and smoother.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Zeki_Sevgi

How to Build Basement Stairs on a Budget

Basement stairs come in all shapes and sizes from the very simple utility/access stairs to the more elaborate decorative stairs in which the basement is expanded to be a major part of the living area. One of the major issues facing the stair builder is the unpredictable overall stair height that often occurs with basement stairs. Whether new or existing construction the basement slab height nearly always seems to vary up or down making pre-built stairs problematic. For this reason basement stairs are usually built to customized heights.

The normal procedure in the industry is to call out a stair specialist to custom build the stair using 2 x12 cut stringers as framing for constructing the stair. This can be a difficult and costly process requiring a high degree of skill. However, there is an easier solution available that will save you time as well as money. The system consists of self-adjusting, stair building brackets, used to form an "engineered stair". Adjustable stair building brackets provide a custom, tailored approach to stair building that is much faster, easier and stronger than conventional construction. They're an easy, low cost and simple solution for any custom basement stair building.

This bracket system can quickly form a basic utility stair or an elaborate, fully finished hardwood stair. The adjustable stair building brackets basically do the work for you, making the stair building process simple and streamlined. The brackets are approved as adjustable joist hangers which automatically adjust to form any rise or run required while at the same time, allowing the risers to be structurally attached between the stringers, carrying the load across the stair like stepping floor joists.

Only two outside stringers are required because they are full depth, without notching (unlike conventional cut stringers) and they're engineered to carry much greater loads than conventional cut stringers. Additionally, only three to four end cuts are required per stringer which eliminate approximately seventy saw cuts when compared to conventional cut stringers for basement stairs.

The adjustable stair building brackets may be used with many different materials including pine, MDF treads, hardwoods etc. The adjustable stair building brackets allow for customized rise and tread configurations which can be adjusted to meet all building codes for both interior and exterior applications.

The first thing you need to do is to determine the material you are going to use, the exact number of steps and the stair width. A fully interactive stair calculator is available online which further simplifies the process.

For materials, you will need (2) 2 x6's per stringer member for both sides. The stringers should be straight without any twist. The 2x6's should be at least 12" longer than the total length of your stair.

Adjustable brackets will allow stairs to be built up to nine feet in width, using only the two outside stringers. Use 2x8's for risers with heights up to 7-1/4" and 2 x10's for risers over 7-1/4". Treads may be 2x12's, 5/4 pine, 5/4 hardwood, sturdy floor ripped to size or MDF etc. Pre-cut risers and treads exactly to length once you figure out how many steps you need and their width- this will save time.

You start by setting the brackets on two 2x6 stringer members using the reusable spacers and pivot screws. Once set, remove spacers and rotate the brackets to adjust stair rise and run. Fix the brackets in position and attach the risers and treads. 3D demos will explain the process clearly- see link below.

Tools and other materials needed will be: Power drill, saw (preferably power saw),# 8 1-1/4" Phillips head, star or square drive screws for the stair building brackets, #8 2-1/2" screws for every 9 " of tread and riser connections and spacers to customize the rise and tread configurations.

ICC-ES approved, this" Engineered Stair Building System" eliminates the need to cut stringers and has been tested to be faster and much stronger than conventionally constructed stairs. Savings of $500 per flight of stairs and more are not uncommon with adjustable stair building brackets. Using this system, both professionals and do-it-yourselfers will build cost efficient basement stairs, without sacrificing quality, accuracy, strength or appearance.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Richard_Truckner

Stair Lift Measuring - How To Take Proper Measurements To Install A Stair Chair Lift

Thinking about buying and installing your own stair lift? In today’s internet market, the trend is moving towards customer friendly products. Manufactures are developing and producing products that a typical consumer or homeowner can install with standard household tools in just a few hours.

The first step all stair lift manufactures require from the customer or homeowner before a product is made and shipped are the measurements of the staircase. It is very easy to measure for your new stair lift. All you need is a good quality tape measure to get the job done.

Before you begin to measure, take a general overview of your stairway layout and decide which side of the staircase the stair lift will be mounted on, when viewed from the bottom. Typically, stair lifts can be installed on either side of the staircase. Depending on the layout, choose the best side where it will be the easiest to get on and off the lift avoiding any obstacles at the top or bottom.

Most stair lifts mount to the staircase tread and not the wall. So no walls are necessary for most stair lift designs. Make sure you understand the manufactures design to ensure this is the case.

Now that you have decided which side of the staircase the stair lift will be mounted, follow the steps below to take proper measurements. Always measure twice. All measurements should be recorded in inches.

The following 7 measurements are required to determine if a stair lift application will work for your mobility needs.

1. Overall Length - This is the MOST IMPORTANT measurement! This determines the length of rail you will need for the lift. To obtain this measurement stand at the top of your stairs, extend your tap measure until it is laying on all the stair treads and the tip of the tape measure is touching the landing at the bottom of the steps. How many inches is it from the bottom landing to the top of the upper landing? Document this number.

2. Top Stair to Bottom Stair - Measure from the edge of the top step to the edge of the bottom step.

3. Width - Measure the width of your staircase from wall to wall or inside width of the staircase. In many cases this will be wall to wall.

4. Bottom Clearance - If there is a wall or a door at the bottom of the steps, place the beginning of the tape measure at the beginning of the door frame or wall and extend out until you reach the bottom of you step wall. Note: This should be done if you have a wall (landing) or door at the top of the steps as well and add a number eight (8) measurement and mark that as the "top clearance".
The last three measurements (5, 6, and 7) will enable the manufacturer to preset the seat angle of your lift at the factory.

5. Rise of ONE STEP - Measure the height of one stair. This is from the base of one tread to the next.

6. Tread of ONE STEP - Measure the width of one step. This is the area you walk on. Measure from the front of the step to the back of the step.

7. Diagonal of ONE STEP – Measure the length from one edge of a step to the tip of the next. Similar to step 1 but instead of the entire staircase length, only measure the length between two steps.

Great, now that you have completed the hardest part of determining if a stair lift will work in your home, the next step is to find a stair lift company to ship your product. If you would like more details on How To Measure a staircase please feel free to read more at the above link.

This article was provided by Gerald Lee Graham, Jr. of 4-Med Supplies LLC – wholesaler of Durable Medical Equipment for the disabled. For more information on stair lifts or any other medical equipment, please visit http://www.4-stair-lifts.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gerald_Graham

Stair Lift Measuring - How To Take Proper Measurements To Install A Stair Chair Lift

Thinking about buying and installing your own stair lift? In today’s internet market, the trend is moving towards customer friendly products. Manufactures are developing and producing products that a typical consumer or homeowner can install with standard household tools in just a few hours.

The first step all stair lift manufactures require from the customer or homeowner before a product is made and shipped are the measurements of the staircase. It is very easy to measure for your new stair lift. All you need is a good quality tape measure to get the job done.

Before you begin to measure, take a general overview of your stairway layout and decide which side of the staircase the stair lift will be mounted on, when viewed from the bottom. Typically, stair lifts can be installed on either side of the staircase. Depending on the layout, choose the best side where it will be the easiest to get on and off the lift avoiding any obstacles at the top or bottom.

Most stair lifts mount to the staircase tread and not the wall. So no walls are necessary for most stair lift designs. Make sure you understand the manufactures design to ensure this is the case.

Now that you have decided which side of the staircase the stair lift will be mounted, follow the steps below to take proper measurements. Always measure twice. All measurements should be recorded in inches.

The following 7 measurements are required to determine if a stair lift application will work for your mobility needs.

1. Overall Length - This is the MOST IMPORTANT measurement! This determines the length of rail you will need for the lift. To obtain this measurement stand at the top of your stairs, extend your tap measure until it is laying on all the stair treads and the tip of the tape measure is touching the landing at the bottom of the steps. How many inches is it from the bottom landing to the top of the upper landing? Document this number.

2. Top Stair to Bottom Stair - Measure from the edge of the top step to the edge of the bottom step.

3. Width - Measure the width of your staircase from wall to wall or inside width of the staircase. In many cases this will be wall to wall.

4. Bottom Clearance - If there is a wall or a door at the bottom of the steps, place the beginning of the tape measure at the beginning of the door frame or wall and extend out until you reach the bottom of you step wall. Note: This should be done if you have a wall (landing) or door at the top of the steps as well and add a number eight (8) measurement and mark that as the "top clearance".
The last three measurements (5, 6, and 7) will enable the manufacturer to preset the seat angle of your lift at the factory.

5. Rise of ONE STEP - Measure the height of one stair. This is from the base of one tread to the next.

6. Tread of ONE STEP - Measure the width of one step. This is the area you walk on. Measure from the front of the step to the back of the step.

7. Diagonal of ONE STEP – Measure the length from one edge of a step to the tip of the next. Similar to step 1 but instead of the entire staircase length, only measure the length between two steps.

Great, now that you have completed the hardest part of determining if a stair lift will work in your home, the next step is to find a stair lift company to ship your product. If you would like more details on How To Measure a staircase please feel free to read more at the above link.

This article was provided by Gerald Lee Graham, Jr. of 4-Med Supplies LLC – wholesaler of Durable Medical Equipment for the disabled. For more information on stair lifts or any other medical equipment, please visit http://www.4-stair-lifts.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Gerald_Graham

Building Deck Stairs on a Budget

As a professional, I've built many decks of all sizes and shapes. Stairs are often the last part of the deck to be tackled because they are usually the most difficult and expensive part of the deck to build. However, by using a method known as the 'engineered bracket system', not only can I save up to $500 per flight of stairs, but the installation is easy, with professional results.

The adjustable stair bracket system automatically adjusts to the exact rise and run needed. The customized rise and treads configurations can be adjusted to meet all building codes for any interior or exterior application. The brackets act as joist hangers which allow the stair risers to be used structurally, carrying the load across the stair like floor joists. Using only two outside stringers, the stair width can be up to nine feet wide and the stairs are strong. The need for interior stringers is eliminated. The outside stringers then require only 3 to 4 cuts each, and the risers and treads are simply attached to the brackets. If you make a mistake, you can readjust the brackets.

A wide range of materials such as redwood, cedar, tropical wood, treated wood, untreated wood, vinyl, steel, and composites can be used. Adjustable brackets allow for customized rise and tread configurations which can be adjusted to meet all building codes for any interior or exterior application.

This is how it works: Set the brackets on the two 2x6 stringer members using the spacers and pivot screws. Remove spacers and rotate brackets to adjust stair height. Fix brackets in position, attach risers and treads. 3D video demos are available on the website below.

Before you begin, determine the material you are going to use, the exact number of steps you need and the stair width.

You will need (2) 2x6's per stringer for each side. Make sure when you purchase your 2x6's make sure that they are straight without any twist. The 2x6's will need to be at least 12" longer than the total length of your stairs. Two stringers are sufficient to span up to 7' wide (exterior stair requirements).

For risers you will use 2x8's for riser heights up to 7-1/4" and 2x10's for higher risers. For treads you can use 2x12's (which is the easiest option). However, if you decide to use (2) 6 inch wide treads instead...wood or composite, you will need to use cleat brackets to bridge between the risers for tread support. Time saving tip: when you determine how many steps you will need and your stair width....get all your risers and treads pre-cut to exact lengths when you purchase the materials.

Tools/Materials needed will be: a power drill, saw (skill saw is preferable, but not required, #8 1 1/4" Phillips flat head or star/square drive screws for the stair brackets, #8 2 1/2" deck screws for every 9" of tread and riser connection and Spacers for customized riser and tread measurements.

The "Engineered Stair Bracket System" method eliminates the need to cut stringers and is tested to be much stronger and faster than conventional construction. Whether you're a seasoned professional or a do-it-yourselfer, you will build fast, strong and accurate stairs, on a budget.

Tag : stair lifts,deck stairs,stair design,wood stair

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Richard_Truckner

Building Deck Stairs on a Budget - By Richard Truckner / Leslie ...

As a professional, I’ve built many decks of all sizes and shapes. Stairs are often the last part of the deck to be tackled because they are usually the most difficult and expensive part of the deck to build. However, by using a method known as the ‘engineered bracket system’, not only can I save up to $500 per flight of wood stairs, but the installation is easy, with professional results.

The adjustable stair bracket system automatically adjusts to the exact rise and run needed. The customized rise and treads configurations can be adjusted to meet all building codes for any interior or exterior application. The brackets act as joist hangers which allow the stair risers to be used structurally, carrying the load across the stair like floor joists. Using only two outside stringers, the stair width can be up to nine feet wide and the stairs are strong. The need for interior stringers is eliminated. The outside stringers then require only 3 to 4 cuts each, and the risers and treads are simply attached to the brackets. If you make a mistake, you can readjust the brackets.

A wide range of materials such as redwood, cedar, tropical wood, treated wood, untreated wood, vinyl, steel, and composites can be used. Adjustable brackets allow for customized rise and tread configurations which can be adjusted to meet all building codes for any interior or exterior application.

This is how it works: Set the brackets on the two 2×6 stringer members using the spacers and pivot screws. Remove spacers and rotate brackets to adjust stair height. Fix brackets in position, attach risers and treads. 3D video demos are available on the website below.

Before you begin, determine the material you are going to use, the exact number of steps you need and the stair width.

You will need (2) 2×6’s per stringer for each side. Make sure when you purchase your 2×6’s make sure that they are straight without any twist. The 2×6’s will need to be at least 12″ longer than the total length of your stairs. Two stringers are sufficient to span up to 7′ wide (exterior stair requirements).

For risers you will use 2×8’s for riser heights up to 7-1/4″ and 2×10’s for higher risers. For treads you can use 2×12’s (which is the easiest option). However, if you decide to use (2) 6 inch wide treads instead…wood or composite, you will need to use cleat brackets to bridge between the risers for tread support. Time saving tip: when you determine how many steps you will need and your stair width….get all your risers and treads pre-cut to exact lengths when you purchase the materials.

Tools/Materials needed will be: a power drill, saw (skill saw is preferable, but not required, #8 1 1/4″ Phillips flat head or star/square drive screws for the stair brackets, #8 2 1/2″ deck screws for every 9″ of tread and riser connection and Spacers for customized riser and tread measurements.

The “Engineered Stair Bracket System” method eliminates the need to cut stringers and is tested to be much stronger and faster than conventional construction. Whether you’re a seasoned professional or a do-it-yourselfer, you will build fast, strong and accurate stairs, on a budget.

EZ Stairs is the only adjustable, engineered stair bracket system available anywhere, ICC approved. It won Pro Sales Magazine’s Editor’s 2004 Choice award for new product innovation in construction. EZ Stairs’ composite deck stairs compatibility solution was chosen for LBM Journal’s ‘Hot Products’ Award at the 2005 and 2008 International Builders Show. Easy installation, strong and professional. The system is engineered so that even someone with minimal building skills, can build stairs easily, and pros can just build faster- equaling more profit. For more information, visit the ez-stair.com website, or call 866-693-9570. See an EZ Stairs 3D demo and photos.

About the Author

Richard Truckner, holder of 12 plus patents in construction related products. Bachelor of Technology in Architecture; career spanning 40 plus years. Richard is the inventor of EZ Stairs.

http://www.articlerich.com/blog/home-improvement/building-deck-stairs-on-a-budget-by-richard-truckner-leslie-walker

How To Measure A Straight Stair Lift

Installing a straight stair lift is easy and most people with a small amount of DIY experience can install one in only a few hours. However, many people are unsure about purchasing a straight stair lift because they don't know how to accurately measure their stairs so that they can feel confident when ordering one. However, measuring is not that difficult and can be done in about 5 minutes.

You can save a great deal of money is you buy and install a straight chair lift yourself. Even if you have the dealer install it for you, you can still sometimes save money if you give them the measurements beforehand; some agents make a charge for a pre-sales, on-site inspection.

Taking measurements is quite straight forward; there's not that much to it. The measurements are few and very easy to take. These machine are specifically designed to tolerate slight differences, meaning that things like carpet runners will not make a difference, so don't worry. Just follow the measurement instructions step by step and you'll be fine. You'll need a pen, paper and a measuring tape that can extends to the full run of your stairs.

Stand at the bottom of the stairs, look up, and decide which side of the stairs the lift will be mounted on. Most staircases run along a wall and most people prefer that the track also run on that side of the stairs: the track is actually fixed to the stair tread and never the wall. Small obstructions like handrails shouldn't be a problem as stair lifts are designed to clear these obstacles. This is the first and most important measurement.

For the next measurement, stand at the top of the stairs, and extend the measuring tape so that it lies on each of the stair treads - it should run parallel to the skirting board. You may find this easier to do if someone lends a hand. Take note of the measurement when the measuring tape touches the floor at the bottom of the stairs.

The next step is to measure from the edge of the top step to the edge of the first step - the tread. The next step is also simple enough. You just need to measure the width of the staircase. If there is a wall or door at the bottom of the stairs, measure the distance form the bottom step to the wall or door. This will tell the stair lift company how much clearance is needed.

The above measurements are the basic requirements that a stair lift company will need to supply you with the correct straight stair lift. Certain brands and models of may require more specific measurements to get a sense of space. If this is the case, the stair lift company will have instructions for any additional measurements needed. The company will usually supply you with graphs or easy to follow instructions, making measuring for your new straight stair lift an easy and simple process.

If you have any doubts you can request a survey from a reputable stair lift company. You can find these companies on the web and many will make no charge for an onsite survey regardless of whether you buy a straight stair lift or not.

Follow the links for straight stair lifts and get information on stair chair lifts on leading brands like the Ameriglide stair lift

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Robin_O'Brien

7 Important Points For Your Stair Lift Installation

Are you thinking of buying and installing your own stair lift? On the market of today on the Internet, the tendency is moving towards products friendly to the customer. Factories are developing and promoting products that a consumer or an owner of a typical house can install with the standard household tools in just a few hours. The first stage that all the stair lift factories require from the customer or the owner of a house before a product is made and delivered are measurements of the staircase. It is very easy to measure for your new stair lift. Very your needs by making proper measurements to obtain properly made equipment.

Before you start to measure, take a general overall picture of the layout of your staircase and decide which side of the staircase the stair lift will be assembled above, as seen from the bottom. Typically, a stair lift can be installed on either side of the staircase. According to the particular use choose the best side where it will be easiest to obtain movement of the stair lift while avoiding all the obstacles with the top or bottom. The majority of the stair lifts go up to the tread of staircase and not to the wall. So much so that a wall is not necessary for the majority of the designs of stair lifts. Be certain that you understand the factory design to ensure that this is the case. Now that you decided upon which side of the staircase the stair lift will be assembled, follow the steps below to take suitable measurements. Always measurement twice.

All measurements should be recorded in inches. 7 following measurements are required to determine if an application of a stair lift will function for your needs for mobility.

1. Overall length - it is the MOST IMPORTANT measurement! This determines the length of the rail which you will be required for the stair lift. To obtain this measurement to the top of your staircases, to continue your measurement tape until it extends on all treads from the staircase and the end measurement from the band to the landing at the bottom where the stage touches. How many inches is the landing lower than the top of the higher landing? Document this number.

2. To supplement the staircase to the base of the staircase - to measure starting from the edge of the higher stage at the edge of the lower stage.

3. Width - to measure the width of your staircase of wall to the width of wall or interior of the staircase. In most cases it will be wall to be wall.

4. Lower release - if there is a wall or a door at the bottom stages, place the beginning of the measurement at the beginning of the reinforcement or wall or door and to continue outside until you reach the bottom of your wall of stage. Note: This should be done if you have a wall (landing) or as well if it carries it to the top of the stages and to add a measurement and a mark of the number eight (8) which like “higher release”. Three last measurements (5, 6, and 7) will make it possible for the manufacturer to preset the angle of the seat of your stair lift at the factory.

5. Rise in a STAGE - to measure the size of a staircase. It is the base of one tread to the next one.

6. Tread of a STAGE - to measure the width of a stage. It is the area which you walk above. To measure from before the stage with the back of the stage.

7. Diagonal of a STAGE - to measure the length starting from an edge of a stage at the end of the next one. Similar at stage 1 but instead of the whole length of staircase, to measure only the length between two stages.

For more information and an extensive collection of facts about stair lifts please visit http://www.abcstairlifts.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Callis

Wheelchair Stair Lift From Stannah

Stannah is a market leader in the manufacture of stair lifts and is one of the few that make a genuine wheelchair stair lift. However, buying and installing one for a wheelchair user is far from easy. In fact, most homes are not suitable for this type of lift. So, first you must find out if your home is suitable.


A wheelchair stair lift differs greatly from a conventional model. But first, let's get one thing clear; we're talking about inclined wheelchair stair lifts. This type travels up and down stairs - unlike vertical wheelchair lifts that resemble an elevator.


A regular stair lift consists of a chair that moves along a track. The track is always mounted on the stair tread and not on the wall. An inclined wheelchair stair lift consists of a platform that moves along a track. Because of size and weight considerations, the track is always mounted on the wall. Also, the platform of a wheelchair unit is considerably larger than the seat of a conventional model therefore the stairway must be wide.


So before even looking at a Stannah wheelchair stair lift you must first satisfy two conditions; are your stairs wide enough to accommodate the width of your wheelchair and platform, and are your stairs against a load bearing wall. If the answer to either of these two questions is no then a wheelchair stair lift is not the answer to your problem.


Stannah currently offer two wheelchair stair lifts; the Stairiser SX for straight stairs and the Stairiser CR for curved or turned stairs.


Some of the key features you get with both of these models are;


1. Is easily operated using simple control by the user or companion.

2. The platform automatically folds away or in to position when required.

3. Barrier arms and platform lock down before the platform moves.

4. Sensors will immediately stop the stair lift when any obstruction is encountered.

5. The platform can be accessed either from the front or the side - the side flaps lock and secure the wheels when the platform moves.


Unlike some wheelchair stair lift companies, Stannah don't custom make the platform. This would be the best option, however you are offered a choice of four platform sizes; 750mm x 900mm, 810mm x 1050mm, 810mm x 1200mm and 810mm x 1250mm. So these platforms should accommodate just about all wheelchairs.


Installation can be surprisingly quick. A Stannah unit can be installed in as little as one day for straightforward situations; however you should expect the installation to take far longer than this if you have a curved stairway - sometimes many weeks.


The price of a wheelchair stair lift from Stannah - or from any other company - is going to be expensive. An onsite inspection is required before the cost can be given.


All in all, a wheelchair stair lift is not a viable for the vast majority of wheelchair users, which is a shame. However, if you're one of the lucky few then the Stannah wheelchair stair lift is one model should take a look at. But, as buying anything else, shop around and get the best one for your needs.

About The Author:
Follow the links for wheelchair stair lifts and Stannah stair lifts as well as stair lift ratings.


http://www.articleclick.com/

Poor Deck and Stair Construction Can Kill

In a recent article published in The Los Angeles Times, July 6th of this year, a tragic deck collapse resulting in serious injury and death, is reported. The deck was part of a three story apartment complex in a Birmingham suburb. Seven party-goers is all it took to create this tragic event. Unfortunately, this is an all to common occurrence now days. Reports are continually surfacing, confirming the growing frequency of these serious, life threatening collapses.

Over the past several years, much has been done to address deck and stair safety issues, but we still have a long way to go. One glaring example of the failure in deck and stair safety protocol is the industry standard of permitting "hot dipped galvanized" anchors, screws, hangers and other hardware to be in direct contact with ACQ, pressure treated wood. The galvanic corrosion created between the high copper content of the wood and the galvanizing is so severe that the normal industry standard of G90 galvanizing will corrode in as little as 12 months and G185, such as Z-Max® can be gone in 24 months. The industry (including code officials) has adopted G185 as a fall back position with no engineering testing available to substantiate the validity or longevity of this adoption...this is a "knee jerk" reaction and is an accident waiting to happen. Without a barrier between the pressure treated wood and galvanized hardware, serious corrosion is inevitable.

Take for example the new NADRA (North American Deck and Railing Association) study that examined the number of injuries caused by outdoor deck stairs and porches from 2003 to 2007. The report confirms that deck and stair injuries are on the increase. NADRA points to a 2003 study showing a total of 37,760 injuries which required a visit to the hospital. Of these injuries, 6,120 were a result of structural failure or collapse. Further, the report shows that by 2007, the incidents of serious injury had risen to 55,160. Quoting from the report- "Nearly 15% of all injuries are a result of structural failure". Wood decks are constantly exposed to the elements and they have a limited life span of 10-15 years. As you can see, important to have your deck and deck stairs inspected so that signs of wood decay and deterioration can be repaired.

Other codes address "rail post support" safety. A rail post per code regulations is required to support a lateral load of 200 lbs. This is a poorly enforced area of the code and with many inspectors content with the bump test. If it doesn't move too much when they bump it with their hip, the rail will pass inspection. Many rail posts are simply lagged or nailed to the rim joists and post which are mounted directly to the deck surface will simply not meet code. The tragedy is, there are systems available on the market that correctly address this problem. Simpson, USP and Deck-Loc have brackets which will meet code for rim joist attachment but there's only one adjustable bracket system (discussed below) which will meet code for wood or composite stairs.

Attention is now being given to the ability of the vertical post's strength when hit by various degrees of lateral thrust pressure. These new directives, requiring the vertical rail post to support a minimum of 200 lbs. of lateral thrust, is making engineered stair systems extremely popular, with their ability to withstand over 500 lbs of lateral thrust for the 'rail post support' structural sections of the overall decking plans.

Stairs are perhaps the most overlooked area of construction. Stairs using standard cut stringers have been used for eons and are "grandfathered" into code as accepted construction. Stringers are cut from 2x12's and greatly weakened in the process. Several stringers are then run longitudinal down length of the stair to make up for the strength loss during cutting. Long stair run tend to bounce and stringer failure is not uncommon. Additionally, many of these stairs are built without risers which is a "child safety" issue in many states. General Contractor and renowned professional deck builder, Pat Noonan of Minnesota says, "Of the 50+ decks I have torn off and replaced, not one had a stair system that outlasted the deck." The majority of them had shaky, unsafe stairs, and it was the main reason they were doing the rest of the deck."

Engineered stair systems such as adjustable bracket systems for wood stair and composite stairs overcome many of these problems and safety issues. This is due to the much more rigorous testing required to gain ICC/ES acceptance for a stair system which has not been simply "grand fathered" into common use. This adjustable bracket system is engineered in a completely different manner to conventional stair construction. These adjustable steel brackets lock the risers and treads onto the stringers, with a solid, joist hanger type connection. Only two stringers are required for stairs up to 7' in width. This becomes possible because the two outside stringers are full depth, acting like beams running down the length of the stair ( only three end are cuts required per stringer). Next, the risers (which are locked to the steel brackets) span across the stair like joist hangers, at each step supporting the tread.

The result is a "rock solid" stair which has been tested at over 1,200 lbs. per sq. ft.(uniform distributed load), well in excess of the code requirement of only 100 lbs per sq. ft. (commercial load). The steel brackets adjust to form any rise or run required and are powder coated over a hot dipped galvanized finish. The powder coating (paint) sets up an effective barrier between the pressure treated wood and the galvanized finish, preventing corrosion. Additionally the structural risers overcome the child safety issue (found on stairs without risers) and as mentioned above, the brackets have been tested to exceed code requirements for lateral load applied to "rail post" supports.

General Contractor Pat Noonan continues, "Craftsmanship will only take you so far when you are dealing with a inferior framing system and components. When deck builders notch steps out of a 2"x12", they are cutting all the strength out of the wood and putting the entire weight of the stair plus anyone walking up or down on 4" of wood left in the 2"x12". With an adjustable bracket system, they are putting the weight on 11' of solid wood- there's no comparison".

EZ Stairs adjustable bracket stair system allows builders to construct stairs with a wide range of materials such as redwood, cedar, tropical wood, treated wood, untreated wood, vinyl, steel, and composites. This stair system allows for customized rise and treads configurations which can be adjusted to meet all building codes for any interior or exterior application- ICC approved. It is the only adjustable stair bracket system available anywhere. The EZ Stairs system will allow you to build strong, easy to install stairs, in less time and with less money than traditional construction. You will have stairs that will last for many years longer than conventional stair construction.To help you figure out how many stairs you will need, the website provides a free stair calculator.

Tag : stair lifts,stair desigh,stair railing

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Richard_Truckner

The Wheelchair Stair Lift From Stannah

Stannah is a market leader in the manufacture of stair lifts and is one of the few that make a genuine wheelchair stair lift. However, buying and installing one for a user is far from easy. In fact, most homes are not suitable for this type of lift. So, first you must find out if your home is suitable.

A wheelchair stair lift differs greatly from a conventional model. But first, let's get one thing clear; we're talking about inclined ones. This type travels up and down stairs - unlike vertical wheelchair lifts that resemble an elevator.

A regular stair lift consists of a chair that moves along a track. The track is always mounted on the stair tread and not on the wall. An inclined one consists of a platform that moves along a track. Because of size and weight considerations, the track is always mounted on the wall. Also, the platform of a wheelchair unit is considerably larger than the seat of a conventional model therefore the stairway must be wide.

So before even looking at a Stannah wheelchair stair lift you must first satisfy two conditions; are your stairs wide enough to accommodate the width of it and platform, and are your stairs against a load bearing wall. If the answer to either of these two questions is no then a wheelchair stair lift is not the answer to your problem.

They currently offer two stair lifts; the Stairiser SX for straight stairs and the Stairiser CR for curved or turned stairs.

Some of the key features you get with both of these models are;

1. Is easily operated using simple control by the user or companion.

2. The platform automatically folds away or in to position when required.

3. Barrier arms and platform lock down before the platform moves.

4. Sensors will immediately stop the stair lift when any obstruction is encountered.

5. The platform can be accessed either from the front or the side - the side flaps lock and secure the wheels when the platform moves.

Unlike some wheelchair stair lift companies, Stannah don't custom make the platform. This would be the best option, however you are offered a choice of four platform sizes; 750mm x 900mm, 810mm x 1050mm, 810mm x 1200mm and 810mm x 1250mm. So these platforms should accommodate just about all wheelchairs.

Installation can be surprisingly quick. A Stannah unit can be installed in as little as one day for straightforward situations; however you should expect the installation to take far longer than this if you have a curved stairway - sometimes many weeks.

The price of one from Stannah - or from any other company - is going to be expensive. An on site inspection is required before the cost can be given.

All in all, a wheelchair stair lift is not a viable for the vast majority of wheelchair users, which is a shame. However, if you're one of the lucky few then this is one model should take a look at. But, as buying anything else, shop around and get the best one for your needs.

Follow the links for wheelchair stair lifts and Stannah stair lifts as well as stair lift ratings.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Robin_O'Brien